Van Cleef & Arpels vs. Louis Vuitton: The Four-Leaf Clover Battle Comes to an End

LV Four leaves clover

by Mia Liu

Finally, the Four-Leaf Clover dispute between Van Cleef & Arpels and Luis Vuitton came to an end: the French Supreme Court dismissed the infringement claims, LV won and received compensation.

On March 5, 2025, the Commercial, Financial, and Economic Law Division of the French Supreme Court dismissed Richemont Group’s appeal against Louis Vuitton (LV), citing "insufficient evidence," and upheld the Court of Appeal’s ruling in favor of LV. This decision marks the conclusion of an eight-year legal battle over the copyright of the four-leaf clover design, with LV emerging victorious.

Beyond the reputations of these two century-old brands, this ruling sets a significant precedent for intellectual property (IP) protection and design boundaries within the luxury industry.

Case Background: From Copying Allegations to Final Defeat

In 2017, Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) first filed a lawsuit against LV, accusing its Color Blossom collection, launched in 2015, of copying VCA’s iconic Alhambra four-leaf clover motif. VCA demanded a sales ban on the alleged infringing jewelry and €15 million in damages.

Richemont argued that LV’s designs bore a striking resemblance to the Alhambra collection in terms of:

1. The four-petal floral shape,

2. Gemstone-inlaid metal framework,

3. A similar pricing strategy, suggesting an attempt to capitalize on VCA’s reputation.

However, LV countered that its design was inspired by its Monogram flower motif, which has been in use since 1896. LV further claimed that four-petal floral designs are commonplace in the jewelry industry and that the Color Blossom collection was simply a natural extension of LV’s signature design language.

After the Paris Court of Appeal ruled in favor of LV in 2023, the French Supreme Court upheld the ruling in March 2025, determining that:

1. The two designs had significant differences,

2. LV did not engage in unfair competition,

3. Richemont must pay €50,000 in legal fees to LV.

Key Takeaways from the Ruling: Common Design Elements ≠ Infringement

The ruling raised three key legal points that have sparked widespread industry discussion:

1. Four-petal floral motifs are not exclusive to any brand – The court ruled that elements like four-leaf clovers and floral patterns have existed in jewelry for decades and cannot be monopolized by a single company.

2. Significant design differences exist – While both brands use four-petal floral motifs, LV’s Monogram flower and VCA’s hidden setting technique are visibly distinct. Additionally, LV’s Color Blossom collection emphasizes vibrant colors and innovative materials, setting it apart.

3. No evidence of unfair competition – The court found that LV’s Color Blossom collection was part of its brand expansion strategy, targeting a different market segment from VCA.

Legal experts suggest that this case clarifies the boundary between the use of common design elements and intentional imitation, emphasizing that innovation, market norms, and competitive intent must all be considered in IP disputes.

Industry Insights: Balancing IP Protection and Innovation

This case reflects three major trends in the luxury industry:

1. Blurred IP Boundaries – Classic design elements (e.g., LV’s Monogram, VCA’s Four-Leaf Clover) are increasingly used in derivative products, making early trademark and patent registration essential.

2. Consumer Perception is Key – The court did not find consumer confusion, suggesting that customers can clearly distinguish between VCA’s Alhambra and LV’s Color Blossom collections. This highlights the importance of brand differentiation and marketing strategies.

3. The Legal-Commercial Tradeoff – While the ruling prevents monopolization of common design elements, it also warns brands against excessive reliance on imitation. True market leadership comes from innovation, not litigation.

Conclusion: The Eternal Debate Between Design Freedom and Copyright Protection

From LV’s Monogram to VCA’s Four-Leaf Clover, the evolution of luxury design language has always been a balance of tradition and innovation.

While Richemont’s loss means it missed an opportunity to block a competitor, the case has forced the industry to reconsider a fundamental question: How can brands honor their design heritage while leaving room for creativity and innovation?

For consumers, however, this lawsuit may simply serve as another reminder that the true value of luxury lies beyond a single motif.